Training your cat to feel comfortable in their carrier is an important skill that will help reduce their stress, and yours, when they need to travel. Even if you don’t regularly travel with your cat, getting them comfortable in their carrier will make trips to the veterinarian smoother.
The training process takes patience and consistency. Using positive reinforcement and progressing at your cat’s pace, you can gradually build a positive association with the carrier. Each cat is unique, so it’s important to be patient and adaptable in your approach. With time and practice, your cat can learn to view their carrier as a safe and comforting space where they feel secure.
Here’s What You’ll Need:
- A carrier that is the right size for your cat
- A secure room or cage
- Your cat’s meals
- High-value treats
- A towel to cover the carrier for comfort
Choosing the Right Carrier
It’s important to select a carrier where your cat can easily stand, lie down, and turn around. Choose carriers with removable lids, as they make veterinary visits less stressful when it’s time to come out of the carrier.
Setting Up the Carrier
Line the carrier with a soft blanket or bedding with your cat’s scent on it and cover it with a towel. This creates a cozy environment and helps reduce your cat’s stress.
Introducing the Carrier
Start by placing the carrier in your cat’s space with the door open. Begin feeding your cat near the carrier, gradually moving the dish closer to the back over time. Monitor your cat during meals to ensure they stay relaxed and comfortable.
Active Approach
Next, place the bottom half of the carrier in a secure room. Use treats or toys to lure your cat near or inside the carrier. Reward any interaction, such as sniffing or stepping inside, with treats.
Gradual Enclosure
Once your cat is comfortable approaching the carrier, add the top half. Encourage them to enter with the top on, rewarding each successful interaction. When your cat stays inside, close the carrier door and reward them. Gradually increase the time the door remains closed, rewarding your cat through the carrier door.
Progress at Your Cat’s Pace
Always monitor your cat’s comfort level. If they show signs of fear, anxiety, or stress, slow down the training process. It may take several sessions over days or weeks for your cat to feel completely comfortable.
If you encounter challenges during the training process, please contact a professional trainer or behaviour consultant.
Teaching a dog to “stay” is an important lesson to help keep your dog safe, teach focus and patience, develop manners, set boundaries, and it serves as a foundational cue for other training activities.
Remember to keep training sessions short and stop the session before the dog starts to lose interest. We want to set the dog up for success in every stage. The dog should already know the verbal cue “Sit.”
Here’s What You’ll Need:
- 6’ leash
- Secure room (low-distraction area to begin)
- Treat pouch, or bag of bite-sized treats
- High-value treats
- Clicker (optional)
Step 1: Introducing a “Release” Cue
- Start by asking the dog to “Sit.” Immediately mark the behaviour with a click or “Yes” and reward.
- Mark and reward again, quickly following the first reward.
- Stop feeding and remain still. Give the verbal cue “Release” and wait for the dog to move.
- When the dog gets up, pet, praise, and reward them with treats.
- Repeat several times until the dog is consistently responding to the release verbal cue.
Step 2: Increasing Duration
- Ask the dog to “Sit.”
- Immediately mark the behaviour with a click or “Yes” and then reward.
- Wait 3 to 5 seconds with the dog sitting, then mark the behaviour with click or “Yes” and reward.
- Say the release cue “Release” and then reward. Next, try the steps again.
- Repeat steps 1 to 4 several times, slowly increasing the time the dog is sitting before giving the mark and reward.
- Continue to increase the time until the dog sits for 15 to 20 seconds.
- Once the dog is consistently sitting for 15 to 20 seconds, add the “Stay” cue.
- Ask the dog to “Sit” and then say “Stay,” marking the behaviour with a click or “Yes” and reward.
Step 3: Increasing Distance
- Once the dog is reliably sitting for 15 to 20 seconds, start to add distance with the stay.
- Ask the dog to “Sit” and “Stay” and then take 1 to 2 steps back away from the dog. If the dog tries to get up, try moving yourself to the side.
- As you step away, mark the behaviour with a click or “Yes” and then step back towards the dog and reward.
- Repeat steps 1 to 3 several times, slowly increasing the steps taken away from the dog.
- If the dog doesn’t hold the sit as you move away, decrease the distance taken and continue to work on reinforcing at the level at which the dog is successfully staying.
When the dog is reliably staying, try to increase the difficulty by increasing stay duration and distance while adding distractions. Always set the dog up for success by being patient and taking time at each step before moving onto the next stage.
If you need assistance, contact a professional trainer or behaviour consultant.
Teaching your dog to sit is a great skill. It can help the dog focus, provides good behaviour in place of an undesired one, such as jumping up, and can even help keep them safe. Remember to be patient, consistent and do not use force or push a dog’s hind end down when teaching them to sit.
Here’s What You’ll Need:
- 6’ leash
- Treat pouch, or bag of bite-sized treats
- High and medium value treats
- Clicker (not necessary, but can be used)
Steps:
- While facing the dog, hold a treat just in front of the dog’s nose.
- Take the treat and lure the dog (slowly moving the treat up and backwards) over the dog’s head.
- As the dog’s head follows the treat up and back, their rear end will drop in a sitting position.
- Mark (click or “Yes”) the behaviour and deliver the treat as soon as the dog sits. Follow with praise and petting.
- Repeat steps 1-4 until the dog is reliably offering the behaviour.
- Once the dog is starting to offer the behaviour, add the verbal cue “Sit.”
- Say “Sit” as soon as the dog’s hind end touches the ground, then mark (click or “Yes”) and reward with a treat.
- A er a few consistent sessions, begin to say “Sit” before the dog sits down, then mark (click or say “Yes”) and reward.
As the dog becomes more consistent with “Sit,” increase difficulty by changing environments or slowly add distractions. If you need assistance, please contact a professional trainer or behaviour consultant.
Crate training can be a useful skill to teach your dog to ensure they are comfortable being in a crate. With proper introductions, many dogs find crates to be a safe, familiar space they can go to relax. It’s also a useful skill should they ever need to be in a crate for travel or confinement following a medical procedure.
Here’s What You’ll Need:
- 6’ leash
- Appropriately sized crate – your dog should be able to stand up fully with his/her head held at normal position, turn around easily and lie down without impediment.
- Treat pouch, or bag of bite-sized treats
- High and medium value treats
- Clicker (not necessary, but can be used)
Introducing the Crate:
- Place an appropriately sized crate in your home, ensuring the crate door remains open.
- Start by feeding the dog’s meals in front of the crate. Eventually, move their food dish further to the back of the crate. Make sure to prop the crate door open so it doesn’t close when the dog walks inside.
- Monitor the dog for the first minute of their meals to ensure they do not show signs of fear, anxiety or stress when entering the crate.
Introducing the Crate With Games:
- Start by tossing treats into the open crate using a hand motion (pointing towards or motioning to) and allowing the dog to walk-in and pick-up the treats and then exit.
You may need to start with treats at the front of the crate and then slowly moving them to the back of the crate. - Start increasing the number of treats thrown into the crate.
- While the dog is picking up treats, mark (click or “Yes”) and then toss another treat to increase duration.
- Once the dog is actively entering the crate for treats with their entire body, begin saying “Crate.” Continue practicing this method three to four more times.
- Say “Crate” and use a hand motion, without tossing treats. If the dog enters the crate, mark (click or “Yes”) and reward them inside of the crate.
- Continue these steps until the dog reliably offers walking into crate with the verbal cue.
- Once the dog is consistently going in the crate, ask the dog to enter the crate, mark (click or “Yes”) and reward. A erwards, close the door without latching it and immediately mark and reward. Then, open the crate door.
- If the dog exits, repeat steps 1-6. If the dog stays, repeat step 7.
- Once the dog remains in the crate a er the door is closed and opened, begin adding time before marking, rewarding and opening door. Ensure the dog receives breaks throughout this process.
- Slowly increase the dog’s duration in the crate.
- Slowly add having yourself walking away from the crate before returning, followed by marking and rewarding.
- Slowly begin adding distractions like noise, toys, or other stimuli.
Remember, crate training isn’t suitable for every dog. Always monitor your dog for signs of fear, anxiety, stress or frustration and seek the guidance of a professional trainer or behaviour consultant if you need assistance.
Whether you live in a rural or urban setting, loose-leash walking is an important skill for every dog to learn. It helps develop your dog’s manners and ensures a more enjoyable and safe walking experience.
Pick a place that has minimal distractions to start, and make sure you have plenty of treats. There are many ways to teach loose-leash walking, but this is a quick way that’s easy for most.
Here’s What You’ll Need:
- 6’ leash
- Treat pouch, or bag of bite-sized treats
- High and medium-value treats (treats that we don’t use in other situations)
- Clicker (not necessary, but can be used)
Steps:
- Lure the dog to the side where you would like them to be, mark (click or “yes”) and reward. This lets your dog know they’ve done well in the moment.
- Begin walking, encouraging the dog to follow you.
- Deliver treats while the dog is in the appropriate position. As the dog walks beside you, mark and reward periodically.
- If the dog pulls ahead, stop and wait a moment or until the dog looks back or loosens the tension on the leash, mark (click or “yes”) and continue walking forward.
- If the dog is continuing to pull a er you stop walking, give them a few moments and offer a positive interrupter like a “kissy” noise, then lure them back to your side and start again. If luring them back doesn’t work or they continue to pull, change direction; offer verbal encouragement, and when the dog follows, mark and reward.
- Anytime your dog looks up at you while walking, mark and reward.
- Once the dog is reliably offering the behaviour, add the verbal cue like “Let’s go.”
As the dog becomes more consistent with loose-leash walking, you can increase difficulty by changing environments or slowly add distractions. Remember, this method may not work for every dog or every situation.
If you need additional assistance for more complex needs, please contact a certified trainer or a behaviour consultant.
What is “Stranger Danger”?
“Stranger danger,” or “stranger anxiety,” is when a dog shows fear-based behaviours and reacts negatively to new or unknown people. This fear of strangers is common in dogs that haven’t been properly socialized or had negative experiences during their critical development periods. While there is often a genetic component, it can also be a learned behaviour. “Stranger danger” can serve as a natural defense mechanism and is a normal reaction in many dogs.
However, it becomes a problem when dogs display these behaviours in typical home settings or when their pet parents don’t understand the motivations behind their actions. This can lead to potential danger for both people and other animals. To help your dog understand that strangers aren’t a threat, there are several steps you can take. Remember, modifying this behaviour is best done with the help of a certified dog trainer or an animal behaviour consultant.
What Does it Look Like?
Common behaviours in dogs with “stranger danger” include:
- Constant hard focus on the stranger
- Stiff body posture
- Raised hackles (where the hair along a dog’s back and neck stands up)
- Stiff and raised tail
- Refusing treats or not responding to verbal cues
- Vocalizations like deep barking, growling, or snarling
- Air snapping
- Lunging
- Biting, if they get the chance
The Do’s and Don’ts for Handling “Stranger Danger”
The Do’s:
- Pay attention to your body language: Approach your dog calmly and in a non-threatening manner. Your posture and movements can significantly affect how your dog perceives a situation.
- Provide positive reinforcement: Use praise, treats, or toys to create positive associations with strangers. Rewarding your dog when they remain calm around new people can help reduce their anxiety.
- Use management tools: Utilize tools such as baby gates, confinement areas, and leashes to manage interactions. These can help create a controlled environment that feels safe for your dog.
- Give space and choice: Allow your dog the option to retreat and feel safe. Respecting their need for space can prevent escalating fear or stress.
- Go at the dog’s pace: Introduce new people gradually and let your dog adjust in their own time. Pushing them too quickly can increase their anxiety.
- Control the environment: Make introductions in controlled settings where your dog feels secure. This helps minimize potential stressors.
- Understand boundaries: It’s okay if your dog doesn’t become friends with everyone. Sometimes it’s best to keep them in a safe space away from interactions.
- Introduce safety tools: Use muzzles, harnesses, or other safety tools if needed to ensure everyone’s safety during interactions.
The Don’ts:
- Do NOT force interaction: Never corner your dog or force them to interact with a stranger. This can escalate their fear and lead to aggressive behaviour.
- Do NOT punish: Don’t punish your dog for reacting negatively. Understand that they are reacting out of fear, anxiety, or stress. Punishment can make the behaviour worse.
- Do NOT prolong exposure: Avoid keeping your dog near a trigger (stranger) for too long in hopes they will get used to it. This can increase their stress and exacerbate the behaviour.
It’s important to remember that “stranger danger” is a common issue in dogs that can be managed and improved with patience, understanding, and the right approach. By following these tips and seeking help from a certified trainer, you can help your dog feel more comfortable around strangers and improve their overall well-being. Always remember to prioritize your dog’s safety and emotional health, giving them the time and space they need to adjust.
If you need additional assistance for more complex needs, please contact a certified trainer or a behaviour consultant.
What is it?
Separation anxiety is a panic disorder that affects some dogs when le alone and can only be diagnosed by a veterinarian based on clinical signs. It’s important to note that not all dogs displaying difficulty being left alone have separation anxiety. While the exact causes are not fully understood, it may involve genetic predisposition, past traumatic experiences, or sudden changes in their environment.
Dogs do not typically “grow out of” separation anxiety, and it requires intervention to manage effectively. Behaviour modification alone may not suffice, but there are strategies to help dogs cope with this condition.
Things to Rule Out
Before diagnosing separation anxiety, it’s essential to rule out other potential causes such as marking, confinement anxiety, inadequate house training, lack of mental and physical enrichment, sensitivity to external stimuli, and underlying medical conditions like cognitive dysfunction or neurological disorders.
What Does it Look Like?
Signs can include:
- Excessive vocalizations (barking, howling)
- Destructive behaviour (chewing furniture, destroying items)
- Accidents (urination, defecation, vomiting)
- Pacing, panting, or drooling excessively
- Attempts to escape
- Heightened anxiety with departure cues (e.g., when you grab your keys)
- Overexcitement upon your reunion
- Trembling, shaking, disinterest in food, or excessive grooming
Strategies to Prevent/Reduce Separation Anxiety:
Enrichment: Provide physical and mental stimulation to keep your dog entertained and relaxed during alone time.
Physical stimulation may include providing your dog with interactive toys, such as puzzle feeders or chew toys, that can keep them physically engaged and mentally stimulated while you are away.
Mental stimulation may include using food-dispensing toys or games that encourage problem-solving skills to keep your dog’s mind occupied and reduce boredom during alone time.
Relaxation and decompression: Teach your dog to associate a specific bed or mat with calmness and downtime, starting with short sessions and gradually increasing duration. Allow your dog time to decompress a er stimulating events like walks or visitors.
Try including a post-activity cool down to your routine after stimulating activities like walks or play sessions. This allows your dog time to unwind in their designated relaxation area, assisting them to transition from excitement to a calmer state before you leave and/or during alone time.
If your dog shows signs of separation anxiety, it’s crucial to consult your veterinarian and work with a certified professional experienced in treating this condition. They can provide tailored advice and behaviour modification techniques to help your dog feel more secure and comfortable when left alone.
If you need additional assistance for more complex needs, please contact a certified trainer or a behaviour consultant.
What is it?
Resource guarding, also known as “possessive aggression,” occurs when a dog displays protective behaviours over items they consider valuable. This behaviour can include food, toys, or even people. It’s a natural behaviour rooted in their ancestral need to protect resources. While some dogs may have a genetic predisposition to resource guarding, it can also be learned through experiences.
Resource guarding becomes problematic when dogs exhibit these behaviours towards people or other pets in a home or other environments. It’s crucial to work with a qualified trainer or certified behaviour consultant to modify resource guarding behaviours effectively. Remember, resource guarding stems from fear, and dogs do not comprehend why their behaviour may be inappropriate. It can worsen in the presence of other animals or unfamiliar people.
What Does it Look Like?
Signs include:
- Stiff body posture or hovering over an item
- Whale eye (whites of the eyes showing)
- Ears pinned back or to the side
- Showing teeth or lip licking
- Growling, snarling, or snapping
- Moving to block access to the item or food
When guarding food, dogs may eat quickly, snatch food, or jab at their bowl. With toys or other items, they may hide or move away with the item, pin it down, or cover it.
The “Do’s” and “Don’ts”:
- Don’t: attempt to take items from your dog when they display guarding behaviours. Instead, “trade up” by offering something of higher value and then safely remove the item.
- Don’t: punish your dog for resource guarding. Instead, try to understand that they are fearful, not malicious, when displaying these behaviours.
- Do: feed your dog away from people or other animals and avoid putting your hands near their food while they eat. If necessary, toss high-value treats into their bowl from a distance.
- Do: keep known or suspected guarded items out of reach to prevent conflicts.
Understanding and addressing resource guarding in dogs requires patience and understanding. By working closely with a certified behaviour consultant, you can develop strategies to modify these behaviours positively.
Remember, resource guarding is rooted in fear, and creating a safe and supportive environment for your dog is essential. With proper guidance and empathy, you can help your dog feel more secure and reduce instances of resource guarding.
What is it?
Play aggression in cats happens when a cat becomes overstimulated during play, leading to potential aggressive behaviour. This behaviour often involves play predatory actions towards moving objects, such as a person’s hands, feet, legs, or ankles. Cats showing inappropriate play behaviour may lack socialization and are often younger cats (less than three years old) that were weaned early or hand-raised. These cats may not be social with other cats and may have been the only cat in their previous environment.
Causes of “Play Aggression”
Cats may act aggressively during play due to fear, especially if they did not have positive interactions with people during their key socialization period (3-16 weeks of age). These cats may be shy, avoid people, and exhibit high levels of fear, anxiety, and stress. They can become aggressive if they feel cornered or forced to interact.
Regular, gentle interactions using positive reinforcement, such as rewarding desired behaviours with treats or praise, can effectively modify and prevent this behaviour. For example, when your cat behaves calmly during play, you can reward them with a treat or a ection, reinforcing this desirable behaviour.
Recognizing “Play Aggression”
Recognizing the signs of “play aggression” can help you address it before it escalates. Common signs include a crouched body, focused stare, dilated pupils, tail twitching or moving side to side, ears back, and behaviours such as chasing, pouncing, scratching, biting, or swatting.
How to Reduce “Play Aggression”
To reduce the chances of inappropriate play, it’s important to observe your cat’s behaviour and intervene early. If you notice signs of overstimulation, end the play session before your cat becomes aggressive. Never let your cat play directly with your hands or feet, as this can encourage inappropriate behaviour.
Using interactive toys can help remove human hands and other body parts from direct play. Throw small balls, crumpled paper, or foil, and use feather wands to engage your cat in healthy play activities. Shorter play sessions are also beneficial. Daily play sessions of 5-15 minutes throughout the day can help channel your cat’s energy and predatory instincts appropriately.
If the play starts to escalate, distract your cat by throwing small balls or toys away from you. This can redirect their play activity and prevent them from seeing you as a target.
By understanding and addressing “play aggression,” you can create a safer and more enjoyable environment for both you and your cat. Frequent, gentle handling and positive reinforcement can go a long way in modifying and preventing this behaviour.
What is it?
Petting aggression in cats occurs when a cat becomes overstimulated during petting or handling, leading to defensive or aggressive behaviour. This can happen if a cat is petted for too long or in a way they don’t enjoy.
It’s a common behaviour seen in many cats.
All cats have different tolerance levels for petting and handling. Some may enjoy lots of interaction, while others prefer minimal contact. Overstimulation can vary in severity, so it’s crucial to recognize the signs and avoid situations that could escalate to petting aggression.
Other Causes of Petting Aggression
Cats may also become aggressive during petting due to fear or past negative experiences with handling. If a cat wasn’t exposed to positive interactions with people during their socialization period (3-16 weeks of age), they may be more prone to fear, anxiety, and stress when approached or handled. Pain, such as sensitivity in certain areas, and boredom or lack of enrichment can also contribute to petting aggression.
Recognizing the Signs
Watch for these common body language cues that may indicate impending petting aggression:
- Tail swishing
- Skin twitching over the back
- Flattening of ears
- Dilated pupils
- Excessive rubbing against objects or people
- Restlessness or walking away
- Low growling
- Swatting, chasing, or biting if overstimulation continues
Reducing the Chance of Petting Aggression
If you notice signs of overstimulation or aggression, stop petting immediately and use de-escalation techniques. Keep petting sessions short and avoid sensitive areas. Start with gentle petting on the side of the cat’s face and monitor their body language closely. Allow the cat to dictate how much interaction they want and where they prefer to be petted.
Understanding Your Cat’s Preferences
Every cat is unique in their preferences for handling and petting. Some may enjoy being petted on their chin or under the ears, while others prefer no direct touching, but appreciate proximity. Respect your cat’s boundaries and give them time to decompress after interactions.
Increasing Enrichment and Play
If boredom contributes to overstimulation, provide daily play and mental stimulation. Interactive toys, scratching posts, and environmental enrichment can help alleviate fear, anxiety and stress by allowing cats to express natural behaviours and expend energy.
Desensitization and Counter Conditioning
Developing a plan for desensitization and counter conditioning can also help reduce petting aggression. Gradually associate petting with positive experiences, such as offering treats or playtime after gentle strokes, to change your cat’s perception of handling.
Understanding and managing petting aggression in cats requires patience and attentiveness. By respecting your cat’s limits, providing enrichment, and using positive reinforcement techniques, you can create a positive interaction environment that benefits both you and your feline companion.
If you need additional assistance, contact a professional trainer or behaviour consultant.
What is it?
Out-of-box elimination is when cats don’t use their litter box. This common issue can be frustrating for cat adopters and may lead to rehoming considerations. Here’s how to help your cat stay happy and keep your home clean.
First Steps
Check for Health Issues
Take your cat to the vet to rule out health problems like urinary tract infections (UTIs), bladder stones, parasites, and arthritis. These can cause litter box issues.
Create a Cat-Friendly Litter Box Environment
Ensure the litter box is 1.5 times longer than your cat from nose to tail. Most cats prefer clay clumping litter, so consider using that, although preferences vary. Place the litter box in a quiet, low-traffic area and experiment with different depths to see what your cat likes. High sides or covered boxes might be hard for older cats or those with arthritis to use, so try both covered and uncovered options. Keep the box clean by scooping daily and cleaning it regularly.
Track When and Where Your Cat Goes
Keeping a log of your cat’s elimination habits can help you figure out why your cat isn’t using the box.
Look for patterns like:
- Only peeing or only pooping outside the box
- Both peeing and pooping near the box
- Always using the same spot
- Going on certain surfaces
- Going in corners
- Going on personal item
Act quickly! The sooner you address the problem, the less likely it is to become a habit. Remember, cats feel vulnerable using the litter box. Make sure there are multiple exits, and the box is in a low-stress area. Identify any stressors that might be causing the problem.
Solutions for Specific Elimination Issues
Only Peeing or Pooing Near the Box
Some cats need separate boxes for pee and poop. Try adding another box.
Peeing and Pooing Near the Box
This might be a cleanliness issue. Scoop the box multiple times a day and clean it regularly.
- Try different box types. Some cats like covered boxes; others do not.
- Make sure the box is large enough.
Always Using the Same Spot
There may be a stress trigger near the box. Look for anything that might be scaring your cat.
- Move the box to a calmer area.
- Block off the spot where your cat is going or put the litter box there.
Going on Certain Surfaces
Test different types of litter to see what your cat prefers.
- If your cat goes on so surfaces, add more litter to the box.
- If your cat goes on hard surfaces, use less litter or try a pee pad in the box.
Marking Behaviours
Going in Corners
Cats mark their territory by going in corners. Change the association by feeding and playing with your cat in those areas.
- Reduce stressors that might make your cat anxious.
- Give your cat a smaller space to reduce marking.
Going on Personal Items
This might be a form of bonding or repelling. Keep personal items out of reach.
- Have the person your cat is marking against feed, give treats, and play with the cat daily.
- Keep interactions positive and gentle to build trust and a better relationship.
Dealing with out-of-box elimination can be challenging, but with patience and the right approach, you can help your cat overcome this issue. By ensuring a cat-friendly litter box environment, tracking your cat’s elimination habits, and addressing any health or stress-related factors, you can create a more harmonious home for both you and your feline friend.
Remember, every cat is unique, and finding the right solution may take time and experimentation. Stay observant, compassionate, and proactive, and you’ll be well on your way to resolving litter box problems and strengthening the bond with your cat.
If you need further assistance, contact a professional trainer or behaviour consultant.
What an exciting time! Adopting a new friend can be a big responsibility, and we want to help ensure each animal is set up for success in their new home. We encourage you to keep the following tips in mind when you bring home your new rat.
A check-in with your family veterinarian within the first week after adoption is critical to ensure continuity of care for your new friend, and to create a preventative health care plan tailored to their specific needs and to your lifestyle. The goal is to prevent future disease and illness, which will ideally also help reduce future costs of care.
Medical Considerations
Many veterinarians do not treat rats, so it is highly recommended to find a suitable veterinarian before care is needed. The Ontario SPCA does not spay or neuter rats. Surgery can successfully be performed, but it is best done through a veterinarian who has rat surgical experience. Your rat’s teeth will grow continuously throughout their life. Provide your rats
with chewing items such as cardboard and wooden toys. Your rat’s nails will need to be trimmed regularly.
Housing
When selecting a cage for a rat, multi-level cages are preferred as they allow your rat to express natural behaviours. The best location for the cage is inside, away from drafts, direct sunlight, and extreme temperatures, and off the floor to decrease stress. Your rat’s enclosure
should have a solid bottom floor and be lined with bedding, which rats will use to make resting nests, burrow within, snuggle, and re-arrange throughout their cage. Rats need somewhere to hide where they can relax without being seen. And since rats are naturally nocturnal, they benefit from a darker area to sleep or nap during the day.
Nutrition
Rats are omnivores, which means they eat both plant and animal matter. Quality commercial pet rat pellets should make up the vast majority of their diet. Seed and grain mixtures should be avoided. Although your rat friend enjoys fresh vegetables and fruit, they should only be given occasionally as a healthy treat. Rats must have access to water 24/7. This can be done by using a sipper bottle attached to the side of their cage, or a ceramic water bowl.
Enrichment
Your rat enjoys activities that allow them to express their natural behaviours, such as hiding, climbing, constructing and chewing. Enrichment is very important to help keep your rat happy and healthy.