What is “Stranger Danger”?

“Stranger danger,” or “stranger anxiety,” is when a dog shows fear-based behaviours and reacts negatively to new or unknown people. This fear of strangers is common in dogs that haven’t been properly socialized or had negative experiences during their critical development periods. While there is often a genetic component, it can also be a learned behaviour. “Stranger danger” can serve as a natural defense mechanism and is a normal reaction in many dogs.

However, it becomes a problem when dogs display these behaviours in typical home settings or when their pet parents don’t understand the motivations behind their actions. This can lead to potential danger for both people and other animals. To help your dog understand that strangers aren’t a threat, there are several steps you can take. Remember, modifying this behaviour is best done with the help of a certified dog trainer or an animal behaviour consultant.

What Does it Look Like?

Common behaviours in dogs with “stranger danger” include:

• Constant hard focus on the stranger
• Stiff body posture
• Raised hackles (where the hair along a dog’s back and neck stands up)
• Stiff and raised tail
• Refusing treats or not responding to verbal cues
• Vocalizations like deep barking, growling, or snarling
• Air snapping
• Lunging
• Biting, if they get the chance

The Do’s and Don’ts for Handling “Stranger Danger”

The Do’s:

• Pay attention to your body language: Approach your dog calmly and in a non-threatening manner. Your posture and movements can significantly affect how your dog perceives a situation.
• Provide positive reinforcement: Use praise, treats, or toys to create positive associations with strangers. Rewarding your dog when they remain calm around new people can help reduce their anxiety.
• Use management tools: Utilize tools such as baby gates, confinement areas, and leashes to manage interactions. These can help create a controlled environment that feels safe for your dog.
• Give space and choice: Allow your dog the option to retreat and feel safe. Respecting their need for space can prevent escalating fear or stress.
• Go at the dog’s pace: Introduce new people gradually and let your dog adjust in their own time. Pushing them too quickly can increase their anxiety.
• Control the environment: Make introductions in controlled settings where your dog feels secure. This helps minimize potential stressors.
• Understand boundaries: It’s okay if your dog doesn’t become friends with everyone. Sometimes it’s best to keep them in a safe space away from interactions.
• Introduce safety tools: Use muzzles, harnesses, or other safety tools if needed to ensure everyone’s safety during interactions.

The Don’ts:

• Do NOT force interaction: Never corner your dog or force them to interact with a stranger. This can escalate their fear and lead to aggressive behaviour.
• Do NOT punish: Don’t punish your dog for reacting negatively. Understand that they are reacting out of fear, anxiety, or stress. Punishment can make the behaviour worse.
• Do NOT prolong exposure: Avoid keeping your dog near a trigger (stranger) for too long in hopes they will get used to it. This can increase their stress and exacerbate the behaviour.

It’s important to remember that “stranger danger” is a common issue in dogs that can be managed and improved with patience, understanding, and the right approach. By following these tips and seeking help from a certified trainer, you can help your dog feel more comfortable around strangers and improve their overall well-being. Always remember to prioritize your dog’s safety and emotional health, giving them the time and space they need to adjust.

If you need additional assistance for more complex needs, please contact a certified trainer or a behaviour consultant.

What is it?

Separation anxiety is a panic disorder that affects some dogs when le alone and can only be diagnosed by a veterinarian based on clinical signs. It’s important to note that not all dogs displaying difficulty being leftalone have separation anxiety. While the exact causes are not fully understood, it may involve genetic predisposition, past traumatic experiences, or sudden changes in their environment.

Dogs do not typically “grow out of” separation anxiety, and it requires intervention to manage effectively. Behaviour modification alone may not suffice, but there are strategies to help dogs cope with this condition.

Things to Rule Out

Before diagnosing separation anxiety, it’s essential to rule out other potential causes such as marking, confinement anxiety, inadequate house training, lack of mental and physical enrichment, sensitivity to external stimuli, and underlying medical conditions like cognitive dysfunction or neurological disorders.

What Does it Look Like?

Signs can include:

• Excessive vocalizations (barking, howling)
• Destructive behaviour (chewing furniture, destroying items)
• Accidents (urination, defecation, vomiting)
• Pacing, panting, or drooling excessively
• Attempts to escape
• Heightened anxiety with departure cues (e.g., when you grab your keys)
• Overexcitement upon your reunion
• Trembling, shaking, disinterest in food, or excessive grooming

Strategies to Prevent/Reduce Separation Anxiety:

Enrichment: Provide physical and mental stimulation to keep your dog entertained and relaxed during alone time.

Physical stimulation may include providing your dog with interactive toys, such as puzzle feeders or chew toys, that can keep them physically engaged and mentally stimulated while you are away.

Mental stimulation may include using food-dispensing toys or games that encourage problem-solving skills to keep your dog’s mind occupied and reduce boredom during alone time.

Relaxation and decompression: Teach your dog to associate a specific bed or mat with calmness and downtime, starting with short sessions and gradually increasing duration. Allow your dog time to decompress aer stimulating events like walks or visitors.

Try including a post-activity cool down to your routine after stimulating activities like walks or play sessions. This allows your dog time to unwind in their designated relaxation area, assisting them to transition from excitement to a calmer state before you leave and/or during alone time.

If your dog shows signs of separation anxiety, it’s crucial to consult your veterinarian and work with a certified professional experienced in treating this condition. They can provide tailored advice and behaviour modification techniques to help your dog feel more secure and comfortable when leftalone.

If you need additional assistance for more complex needs, please contact a certified trainer or a behaviour consultant.

What is it?

Resource guarding, also known as “possessive aggression,” occurs when a dog displays protective behaviours over items they consider valuable. This behaviour can include food, toys, or even people. It’s a natural behaviour rooted in their ancestral need to protect resources. While some dogs may have a genetic predisposition to resource guarding, it can also be learned through experiences.

Resource guarding becomes problematic when dogs exhibit these behaviours towards people or other pets in a home or other environments. It’s crucial to work with a qualified trainer or certified behaviour consultant to modify resource guarding behaviours effectively. Remember, resource guarding stems from fear, and dogs do not comprehend why their behaviour may be inappropriate. It can worsen in the presence of other animals or unfamiliar people.

What Does it Look Like?

Signs include:

• Stiffbody posture or hovering over an item
• Whale eye (whites of the eyes showing)
• Ears pinned back or to the side
• Showing teeth or lip licking
• Growling, snarling, or snapping
• Moving to block access to the item or food

When guarding food, dogs may eat quickly, snatch food, or jab at their bowl. With toys or other items, they may hide or move away with the item, pin it down, or cover it.

The “Do’s” and “Don’ts”:

• Don’t: attempt to take items from your dog when they display guarding behaviours. Instead, “trade up” by offering something of higher value and then safely remove the item.
• Don’t: punish your dog for resource guarding. Instead, try to understand that they are fearful, not malicious, when displaying these behaviours.
• Do: feed your dog away from people or other animals and avoid putting your hands near their food while they eat. If necessary, toss high-value treats into their bowl from a distance.
• Do: keep known or suspected guarded items out of reach to prevent conflicts.

Understanding and addressing resource guarding in dogs requires patience and understanding. By working closely with a certified behaviour consultant, you can develop strategies to modify these behaviours positively.

Remember, resource guarding is rooted in fear, and creating a safe and supportive environment for your dog is essential. With proper guidance and empathy, you can help your dog feel more secure and reduce instances of resource guarding.

What is it?

Play aggression in cats happens when a cat becomes overstimulated during play, leading to potential aggressive behaviour. This behaviour often involves play predatory actions towards moving objects, such as a person’s hands, feet, legs, or ankles. Cats showing inappropriate play behaviour may lack socialization and are often younger cats (less than three years old) that were weaned early or hand-raised. These cats may not be social with other cats and may have been the only cat in their previous environment.

Causes of “Play Aggression”

Cats may act aggressively during play due to fear, especially if they did not have positive interactions with people during their key socialization period (3-16 weeks of age). These cats may be shy, avoid people, and exhibit high levels of fear, anxiety, and stress. They can become aggressive if they feel cornered or forced to interact.

Regular, gentle interactions using positive reinforcement, such as rewarding desired behaviours with treats or praise, can effectively modify and prevent this behaviour. For example, when your cat behaves calmly during play, you can reward them with a treat or aection, reinforcing this desirable behaviour.

Recognizing “Play Aggression”

Recognizing the signs of “play aggression” can help you address it before it escalates. Common signs include a crouched body, focused stare, dilated pupils, tail twitching or moving side to side, ears back, and behaviours such as chasing, pouncing, scratching, biting, or swatting.

How to Reduce “Play Aggression”

To reduce the chances of inappropriate play, it’s important to observe your cat’s behaviour and intervene early. If you notice signs of overstimulation, end the play session before your cat becomes aggressive. Never let your cat play directly with your hands or feet, as this can encourage inappropriate behaviour.

Using interactive toys can help remove human hands and other body parts from direct play. Throw small balls, crumpled paper, or foil, and use feather wands to engage your cat in healthy play activities. Shorter play sessions are also beneficial. Daily play sessions of 5-15 minutes throughout the day can help channel your cat’s energy and predatory instincts appropriately.

If the play starts to escalate, distract your cat by throwing small balls or toys away from you. This can redirect their play activity and prevent them from seeing you as a target.

By understanding and addressing “play aggression,” you can create a safer and more enjoyable environment for both you and your cat. Frequent, gentle handling and positive reinforcement can go a long way in modifying and preventing this behaviour.

What is it?

Petting aggression in cats occurs when a cat becomes overstimulated during petting or handling, leading to defensive or aggressive behaviour. This can happen if a cat is petted for too long or in a way they don’t enjoy.

It’s a common behaviour seen in many cats.

All cats have different tolerance levels for petting and handling. Some may enjoy lots of interaction, while others prefer minimal contact. Overstimulation can vary in severity, so it’s crucial to recognize the signs and avoid situations that could escalate to petting aggression.

Other Causes of Petting Aggression

Cats may also become aggressive during petting due to fear or past negative experiences with handling. If a cat wasn’t exposed to positive interactions with people during their socialization period (3-16 weeks of age), they may be more prone to fear, anxiety, and stress when approached or handled. Pain, such as sensitivity in certain areas, and boredom or lack of enrichment can also contribute to petting aggression.

Recognizing the Signs

Watch for these common body language cues that may indicate impending petting aggression:

• Tail swishing
• Skin twitching over the back
• Flattening of ears
• Dilated pupils
• Excessive rubbing against objects or people
• Restlessness or walking away
• Low growling
• Swatting, chasing, or biting if overstimulation continues

Reducing the Chance of Petting Aggression

If you notice signs of overstimulation or aggression, stop petting immediately and use de-escalation techniques. Keep petting sessions short and avoid sensitive areas. Start with gentle petting on the side of the cat’s face and monitor their body language closely. Allow the cat to dictate how much interaction they want and where they prefer to be petted.

Understanding Your Cat’s Preferences

Every cat is unique in their preferences for handling and petting. Some may enjoy being petted on their chin or under the ears, while others prefer no direct touching, but appreciate proximity. Respect your cat’s boundaries and give them time to decompress after interactions.

Increasing Enrichment and Play

If boredom contributes to overstimulation, provide daily play and mental stimulation. Interactive toys, scratching posts, and environmental enrichment can help alleviate fear, anxiety and stress by allowing cats to express natural behaviours and expend energy.

Desensitization and Counter Conditioning

Developing a plan for desensitization and counter conditioning can also help reduce petting aggression. Gradually associate petting with positive experiences, such as offering treats or playtime after gentle strokes, to change your cat’s perception of handling.

Understanding and managing petting aggression in cats requires patience and attentiveness. By respecting your cat’s limits, providing enrichment, and using positive reinforcement techniques, you can create a positive interaction environment that benefits both you and your feline companion.

If you need additional assistance, contact a professional trainer or behaviour consultant.

What is it?

Out-of-box elimination is when cats don’t use their litter box. This common issue can be frustrating for cat adopters and may lead to rehoming considerations. Here’s how to help your cat stay happy and keep your home clean.

First Steps

Check for Health Issues

Take your cat to the vet to rule out health problems like urinary tract infections (UTIs), bladder stones, parasites, and arthritis. These can cause litter box issues.

Create a Cat-Friendly Litter Box Environment

Ensure the litter box is 1.5 times longer than your cat from nose to tail. Most cats prefer clay clumping litter, so consider using that, although preferences vary. Place the litter box in a quiet, low-traffic area and experiment with different depths to see what your cat likes. High sides or covered boxes might be hard for older cats or those with arthritis to use, so try both covered and uncovered options. Keep the box clean by scooping daily and cleaning it regularly.

Track When and Where Your Cat Goes

Keeping a log of your cat’s elimination habits can help you figure out why your cat isn’t using the box.

Look for patterns like:

• Only peeing or only pooping outside the box
• Both peeing and pooping near the box
• Always using the same spot
• Going on certain surfaces
• Going in corners
• Going on personal item

Act quickly! The sooner you address the problem, the less likely it is to become a habit. Remember, cats feel vulnerable using the litter box. Make sure there are multiple exits, and the box is in a low-stress area. Identify any stressors that might be causing the problem.

Solutions for Specific Elimination Issues

Only Peeing or Pooing Near the Box

Some cats need separate boxes for pee and poop. Try adding another box.

Peeing and Pooing Near the Box

This might be a cleanliness issue. Scoop the box multiple times a day and clean it regularly.

• Try different box types. Some cats like covered boxes; others do not.
• Make sure the box is large enough.

Always Using the Same Spot

There may be a stress trigger near the box. Look for anything that might be scaring your cat.

• Move the box to a calmer area.
• Block off the spot where your cat is going or put the litter box there.

Going on Certain Surfaces

Test different types of litter to see what your cat prefers.

• If your cat goes on so surfaces, add more litter to the box.
• If your cat goes on hard surfaces, use less litter or try a pee pad in the box.

Marking Behaviours

Going in Corners

Cats mark their territory by going in corners. Change the association by feeding and playing with your cat in those areas.

• Reduce stressors that might make your cat anxious.
• Give your cat a smaller space to reduce marking.

Going on Personal Items

This might be a form of bonding or repelling. Keep personal items out of reach.

• Have the person your cat is marking against feed, give treats, and play with the cat daily.
• Keep interactions positive and gentle to build trust and a better relationship.

Dealing with out-of-box elimination can be challenging, but with patience and the right approach, you can help your cat overcome this issue. By ensuring a cat-friendly litter box environment, tracking your cat’s elimination habits, and addressing any health or stress-related factors, you can create a more harmonious home for both you and your feline friend.

Remember, every cat is unique, and finding the right solution may take time and experimentation. Stay observant, compassionate, and proactive, and you’ll be well on your way to resolving litter box problems and strengthening the bond with your cat.

If you need further assistance, contact a professional trainer or behaviour consultant.

No matter what the weather, your dog probably enjoys having a romp outside – and that includes during the winter! But as their caregiver, it’s important you know when your dog is too cold and needs to get back inside.  

Remember to never leave your dog unattended inside a car at any time of year, but especially in the heat of summer and cold of winter.   

If you’re playing outside with your dog, make sure to take frequent indoor breaks for your dog to warm up and hydrate.  

Signs that can indicate your dog is too cold:  

• Shaking or shivering  
• Hunched posture with a tucked tail  
• Whining or barking  
• Change in behaviour, like seeming anxious or uncomfortable  
• Reluctance to keep walking or tries to turn around  
• Seeks places for shelter  
• Holds paws up off the ground  

Prolonged exposure to the cold can result in frostbite and hypothermia (drop in body temperature).  If you think your furry friend is developing frostbite or hypothermia, wrap them in a blanket or coat, seek a warm shelter and immediate veterinary support.

Signs include:  

• Frostbite (can take several days to develop)  
• Often presents on the extremities (ears, legs, paws, tail)  
• Pale, cold skin that can be painful to touch  
• May develop redness, swelling and blisters of exposed skin  
• Skin may turn black  
• Hypothermia (can range from mild to severe)  
• Prolonged shivering  
• Weakness  
• Muscle stiffness  
• Difficulty walking  
• Pale gums  
• Confusion  
• Slow, shallow breathing  
• Loss of consciousness  

Though it’s important to pay attention to these things, you shouldn’t wait to see the first signs of discomfort to call your walk or playtime quits. While maintaining your dog’s exercise requirements during the winter is important, when conditions are especially cold, it’s a good idea to cut your walk short and supplement your animal’s exercise with some indoor activities and enrichment.  

Check out our safety tips for winter walks. 

If this information was helpful, please help us continue to educate about pet health and well-being by making a donation. As a registered charity that does not receive annual government funding, the Ontario SPCA and Humane Society depends on the generosity of donors to change the lives of animals in need. 

 

 

 

 

At only five months old, a Cane Corso mix named Pogo has already shown more resilience and joy than many see in a lifetime. Her journey began with a tragic accident, but thanks to compassionate caregivers and her unstoppable spirit, Pogo is now thriving in a loving home.  

Tragic accident leads to new beginnings 

Pogo first arrived in our care after an e-bike was accidentally dropped on her leg. The impact caused a severe break, leaving Pogo unable to bear weight on her right hind limb. Wanting to do what was best for their puppy, her pet parents made the decision to rehome her so she could receive the medical treatment she desperately needed and find a home who could provide the care she needed for life.  

When Pogo arrived at the Ontario SPCA York Region Animal Centre, staff immediately recognized the severity of her condition. She had a cut close to her right kneecap and couldn’t put any weight on her leg. X-rays revealed a fracture of the lower femur and a sizable bone fragment in the upper tibia. It was clear that surgery would be required. 

Adapting to a new life  

Due to the complexity and extent of the damage, the veterinary team determined that amputation of Pogo’s right hind leg would give her the best chance at a healthy, pain-free life. The surgery was successful, and to the amazement of everyone involved, Pogo adapted to her new three-legged lifestyle almost immediately. 

“Throughout everything, she kept her sweet, happy, playful puppy energy,” says Crystal Brain. Manager, York Region Animal Centre. “Pogo was so tolerant of all the rechecks and recovery steps.” 

Once healed, Pogo was made available for adoption, and she didn’t have to wait long. A loving couple fell head over heels for her bright personality and Pogo is now enjoying the carefree puppyhood she deserves. 

“Pogo’s journey has been a powerful reminder of the resilience and innocence that animals carry so deeply,” says Crystal. “Even after everything she’d been through, she remained the sweetest girl – gentle, trusting, and full of quiet strength. Watching her make a full recovery and go on to live a happy, healthy life has been incredibly moving for all of us.” 

Pogo’s journey is proof that animals with special needs have so much love to give. 

As a registered charity that does not receive annual government funding, the Ontario SPCA and Humane Society depends on the generosity of donors to change the lives of animals in need. Please consider donating today. 

When Thor first arrived in the care of the Ontario SPCA and Humane Society, he was in rough shape. The eight-month-old Rottweiler mix was rail thin, weighing in at just 17.5 kg – much lower than the 35 kg that a dog his size should weigh.  

A grim beginning 

Becky Harvey, Manager of the Ontario SPCA Lennox & Addington Animal Centre, remembers his arrival vividly.  

“He was very thin, and we started him on a re-feeding program,” says Becky. “Slowly, he began to gain weight, went into foster, and did very well.”  

After nearly a month in care, Thor reached 18.5 kg and continued to progress steadily. With time, patience, and dedicated care from his foster family, Thor regained his strength and spirit. 

Once Thor was healthy enough to find a loving home, it wasn’t long before he caught the eye –and heart – of an adopter. A gentleman named Allen was looking for a companion to share the road of life with and he fell in love with Thor.  

A brighter future 

Thor settled into his new home with ease.  

“He’s adapting well and is full of energy and healing quickly,” says Allen.  

Thor also quickly bonded with his two feline roommates. Most days, you can find Thor trotting along behind Allen as he goes about his routine, with the cats following close behind. 

“They all get along really well, even though he chases them once in awhile,” says Allen. Now healthy, happy, and growing fast, Thor loves nothing more than playing fetch in the yard and being part of a family that cherishes him.   

“I’m all for the work the Ontario SPCA does,” says Allen. 

From a life of uncertainty to a future filled with affection, Thor’s story is a beautiful reminder of how compassion and second chances can change a life. 

As a registered charity that does not receive annual government funding, the Ontario SPCA and Humane Society depends on the generosity of donors to change the lives of animals in need. Please consider donating today. 

What an exciting time! Adopting a new friend can be a big responsibility, and we want to help ensure each animal is set up for success in their new home. We encourage you to keep the following tips in mind when you bring home your new rat.

A check-in with your family veterinarian within the first week after adoption is critical to ensure continuity of care for your new friend, and to create a preventative health care plan tailored to their specific needs and to your lifestyle. The goal is to prevent future disease and illness, which will ideally also help reduce future costs of care.

Medical Considerations

Many veterinarians do not treat rats, so it is highly recommended to find a suitable veterinarian before care is needed. The Ontario SPCA does not spay or neuter rats. Surgery can successfully be performed, but it is best done through a veterinarian who has rat surgical experience. Your rat’s teeth will grow continuously throughout their life. Provide your rats
with chewing items such as cardboard and wooden toys. Your rat’s nails will need to be trimmed regularly.

Housing

When selecting a cage for a rat, multi-level cages are preferred as they allow your rat to express natural behaviours. The best location for the cage is inside, away from drafts, direct sunlight, and extreme temperatures, and off the floor to decrease stress. Your rat’s enclosure
should have a solid bottom floor and be lined with bedding, which rats will use to make resting nests, burrow within, snuggle, and re-arrange throughout their cage. Rats need somewhere to hide where they can relax without being seen. And since rats are naturally nocturnal, they benefit from a darker area to sleep or nap during the day.

Nutrition

Rats are omnivores, which means they eat both plant and animal matter. Quality commercial pet rat pellets should make up the vast majority of their diet. Seed and grain mixtures should be avoided. Although your rat friend enjoys fresh vegetables and fruit, they should only be given occasionally as a healthy treat. Rats must have access to water 24/7. This can be done by using a sipper bottle attached to the side of their cage, or a ceramic water bowl.

Enrichment

Your rat enjoys activities that allow them to express their natural behaviours, such as hiding, climbing, constructing and chewing. Enrichment is very important to help keep your rat happy and healthy.

If you have questions or concerns post-adoption, please contact your local Ontario SPCA and Humane Society animal centre.

What an exciting time! Adopting a new friend can be a big responsibility, and we want to make sure each animal is set up for success in their new home. We encourage you to keep the following tips in mind when you bring home your new guinea pig.

A check-in with your family veterinarian within the first week after adoption is critical to ensure continuity of care for your new friend, and to create a preventative health care plan tailored to their specific needs and to your lifestyle. The goal is to prevent future disease and illness, which will ideally also help reduce future costs of care.

Medical Considerations

Regular veterinary visits are recommended to prevent illness and to keep your new guinea pig as comfortable as possible. Because many veterinarians do not treat guinea pigs, it is highly recommended to find a suitable veterinarian before care is needed. The Ontario SPCA does not
spay or neuter guinea pigs. Surgery can successfully be performed, but it is best done through a veterinarian who has guinea pig surgical experience. Your guinea pig requires Vitamin C in their diet to prevent scurvy. As a rodent, your guinea pig’s teeth will grow continuously throughout their life. To help wear down their ever-growing front teeth, provide your guinea pigs with chewing items such as cardboard and wooden toys. Your guinea pig’s nails will also need to be trimmed regularly.

Housing

When selecting a cage for a guinea pig, bigger is always best. Your guinea pig friend is highly social and typically will enjoy human interaction. Because they are social, another guinea pig companion would be beneficial. Having another guinea pig of the same sex is strongly encouraged. In general, females tend to get along well. Enclosures should have solid bottoms and be covered with shredded newspaper, grass hay, aspen or hardwood shavings. Guinea pigs will usually choose one area as the toilet area. Once they have selected this area, don’t put food, water or toys in the space. As guinea pigs are startled easily, a hiding place must always be provided. Enclosures should remain off the floor to decrease stress.

Nutrition

The majority of a guinea pig’s diet is Timothy hay, which should always be available. Pelleted diets made specifically for guinea pigs, vegetables, and small amounts of fruit account for the rest of a guinea pig’s dietary needs. Guinea pigs are unable to create vitamin C on their own, so this needs to come from their diet.

Enrichment

Your guinea pig enjoys activities that allow them to express their natural behaviours, such as hiding, climbing, constructing and chewing. Enrichment is very important to help keep your guinea pig happy and healthy.

If you have any questions or concerns post-adoption, please reach out to your local Ontario SPCA and Humane Society animal centre.

What an exciting time! Adopting a new friend can be a big responsibility and we want to help ensure each animal is set up for success in their new home. We encourage you to keep the following tips in mind when you bring home your new bird.

A check-in with your family veterinarian within the first week after adoption is critical to ensure continuity of care for your new friend, and to create a preventative health care plan tailored to their specific needs and to your lifestyle. The goal is to prevent future disease and illness, which will ideally also help reduce future costs of care.

Housing

The housing size for birds should be as large as you can accommodate. There must be enough space for your bird to stretch their wings out fully and to fly short distances. Different bird species require different types of cages. To make your bird feel safe, keep the cage off the floor at all times. Cages should have a variety of perches. Birds can benefit from supervised time out of their cage in a safe environment. To keep your bird safe, ensure the environment is free from items that are chewable, keep all windows and doors closed and keep other animals out of the room.

Nutrition

Every bird species has different dietary requirements, so it is best to consult a veterinarian for specific information about your bird. A proper diet promotes good health and can help avoid medical conditions. A good diet generally consists of a high-quality pellet, a variety of fruits, vegetables and grains, and a small amount of seed.

Enrichment

As intelligent and inquisitive species, companion birds can get bored easily, so rotating toys and providing novel enrichment opportunities is critical to their health. Many birds do best with another bird companion, of either the same species or a compatible one. This is especially true if the family works away from the home and the bird is left alone for large portions of the day.

If you have questions or concerns post-adoption, please reach out to your local Ontario SPCA and Humane Society animal centre.